Unlined Construction (only available on oxford cloth shirts)
Many oxford cloth purists proclaim that the only way to wear an oxford cloth shirt is to have no interlining. The collars, cuffs, and front placket are constructed by simply sewing two pieces of oxford cloth together. An unlined shirt is wonderfully soft and comfortable to wear. It seems to move in unison and harmony with the person who is wearing it. Unlined oxford cloth shirts provide the frequently desired and always appealing “lived in” look. For the ultimate in comfort and tradition an unlined oxford cloth shirt is worthy of serious consideration.
Soft Unfused Lining
Our lined shirts have a very light, thin, and soft, cloth interlining that is carefully sewn between the two layers of fabric that make up the collar, the cuffs and the front placket. On many fabrics this lining is an essential and important component in the construction of the shirt. It provides stability, substance and structure to the shirt and is the preferred method of construction when using fabrics that are lighter in weight or more finely woven. Due to the weight and weave of oxford cloth an interlining is not a necessity. A lined oxford cloth shirt does, however, seem to offer a bit more of a “finished” look. If you prefer to wear your oxford cloth shirts heavily starched or sharply pressed, our lined construction might be just the ticket.
Standard Fused Lining
The standard fused lining uses an interlining that is a little heavier in weight than used for our soft unfused lining. As the word “fused” indicates, this methodology employees a heating process in the construction of the collar and cuffs. The interlining is carefully placed between the two sides of the collar and cuff. Once the lining is in place, the entire collar and cuff assembly is placed on a conveyor belt that passes through a special oven at a temperature of 85 degrees (fahrenheit). The end result is a collar and cuff that are wonderfully uniform and structured and that have the feeling and appearance of a shirt that has been commercially starched. The standard fused lining is ideal for all non-oxford cloth fabrics, when the desired outcome is an extra crisp, sharp appearance.